Sunday, November 13, 2016

あんパン Anpan (Mixed flours)

Since I last tried this recipe which used plain flour, I decided to go back to the original JOC recipe which uses bread and cake flour. The results were quite good: the bun was soft and fluffy and didn't feel as dense compared to the version that used plain flour. The bun was more 'spread out' and flat compared to using normal flour, but the fluffiness of this version is far preferable. Fresh out of the oven, the 'skin' is even slightly crunchy!

Having a machine this time also saved me a lot of anguish in terms of working with oily slippery dough all over my benchtop and the feeling like it will never become smooth. I still didn't get the moistness that I associate with anpan buns from Yaohan in my childhood, but the texture of this bun is like what I'd get in the neighbourhood bakeries where they used to sell 3 assorted varieties of buns for $1 in the good old days, even up to 7 years ago.

My adjustment to the recipe is to double the recipe. I spent 6 hours on the entire recipe from start to finish including proving, and making just 8 buns didn't make sense! Watch and read the original JOC recipe for the kneading method.

Ingredients (makes 16 buns)
450g bread flour (3.25 cups)
50g cake flour
2 tsp salt
100g (1/2 cup) sugar
2 tsp instant dried yeast
2 eggs, beaten
100 ml milk 
100 ml water
70g butter, cubed and slightly softened
560g red bean paste (I used store bought)

Egg wash and topping
1 egg + 2 tbsp water, beaten
1 tbsp black sesame seeds in a deep bowl

Method
1) Combine the flours, salt, and yeast in the bowl of a mixer. I'm using a food processor.
2) Bring the milk and water to about 35 deg C. Add in the beaten egg. Pour the liquids into the mixer and on a low speed, beat for 2 minutes. The dough should come away from the side of the bowl. If it doesn't, add in 1 tsp of bread flour at a time and beat for a minute each time until it happens.
3) Add in the cubed butter and beat on low speed till combined. Continue to beat on low speed for about 5 minutes, then increase the speed to medium (never go to high speed) for around 10 minutes minutes until the dough leaves the side of the bowl and gathers on your dough hook. It should leave a clean bowl. It should feel soft to the touch yet not stick to your fingers, and look smooth and shiny. (One other Internet recipe said that it takes 30 minutes of hand kneading to get to this stage! At this stage, JOC uses the window pane test but I find that it never works until the dough has rested, as confirmed by some forums). 
4) Pour out onto a lightly floured working surface (if your dough is correct, you won't need too much flour on the surface, just a thin layer) and fold like a book (see JOC video). Tuck the ends under to form a ball. 
5) Place the ball into a well-oiled bowl and cover with cling film and a tea towel. Leave it to prove until it has doubled in size, about 1 to 2 hours (usually closer to 2 hours even in summer). I leave it in an oven set at around 35 to 45 deg C. Never enter into the 55 to 60 deg C range which is when the yeast will be killed.
6) Stick a well-floured finger into the dough and if the indentation remains, you're ready. Degas the dough gently and pour out onto the floured surface. Again, fold like a book and tuck the ends underneath to make a ball. Divide the ball into 16 pieces. Work each ball in the same kneading method (fold like a book and tuck underneath to make a ball) and place on a parchment-lined baking tray. Cover with cling film and leave to rest at room temperature.
7) Prepare the red bean filling, measuring each 35g ball of filling. I used the size 20 cookie scoop to help, and only filling the cookie scoop 3/4 full.
8) Take out one dough ball at a time. Work in the same kneading method to form a ball. Flatten the ball with the palm of your hand and then work it into a 3 to 3.5 inch disc. 
9) Place the filling in the centre and bring the edges of the dough up and around the ball. Crimp and twist the ends to seal. Try not to get the filling onto the outside of the dough because it becomes next to impossible to seal (trust me, I had several leaky buns)
10) Place ready buns back onto the parchment-lined baking trays, cover with cling film. Return to the oven to proof for 30 minutes.
11) Remove baking tray from the oven and start pre-heating the oven to 200 deg C. 
12) Meanwhile, egg wash each bun carefully. Using a French/Asian rolling pin, wet one end with egg and coat it well with the black sesame seeds to ensure no blank spots. Stamp the sesame seeds onto the bun, very gently pressing down to create a nice round edge to the sesame seed 'stamp' and embedding them into the dough.
13) Bake at 200 deg C for 13 to 15 minutes. I swopped the tray from the shelves and turned the trays around at 9 minutes to get even browning.
14) Once out of the oven, remove from the tray immediately and cool on a wire rack. Store in an airtight container, out of the fridge, for up to 3 days.

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